Morphodynamics is the process by which morphology affects hydrodynamics in such a way as to influence the further evolution of the morphology itself (e.g., Wright, 1995; From: Treatise on Estuarine and Coastal Science, 2011.

What do we mean by coastal Morphodynamics?

Definition of Coastal morphodynamics:

The mutual interaction of coastal morphology with hydrodynamic agents (tides, currents, waves). This interaction takes place through sedimentation, erosion and sediment transport processes.

What is beach morphology?

Beach morphology is the shape of the beach. A beach sediment profile is the pattern of distribution of different sized or shaped deposited material. Constructive waves alter beach morphology by causing net movement of sediment up the beach, steeping the beach profile.

What is longshore sediment transport?

Longshore transport refers to the cumulative movement of beach and nearshore sand parallel to the shore by the combined action of tides, wind, and waves and the shore-parallel currents produced by them.

What is a positive sediment budget?

Sediment Budgets

A sediment budget is the balance between changes in the volume of sediment held within the system and the volume of sediment entering or leaving the system. A positive budget is when there are more inputs than outputs to the system and a negative budget is when outputs are higher than inputs.

Where does the word morphology come from?

The term morphology is Greek and is a makeup of morph- meaning ‘shape, form’, and -ology which means ‘the study of something’.

Which Morphodynamic variables shape the coastal landforms?

Powered by the waves, tides, currents and wind, they erode and accrete, depending on the environmental condition at any particular point of time.

Which process generates the higher forces able to erode sediment from the coast?

Coastal erosion may be caused by hydraulic action, abrasion, impact and corrosion by wind and water, and other forces, natural or unnatural. On non-rocky coasts, coastal erosion results in rock formations in areas where the coastline contains rock layers or fracture zones with varying resistance to erosion.

What is a groyne in beach terms?

A groyne is a shore protection structure built perpendicular to the shoreline of the coast (or river), over the beach and into the shoreface (the area between the nearshore region and the inner continental shelf), to reduce longshore drift and trap sediments.

What is spit in geography?

spit, in geology, narrow coastal land formation that is tied to the coast at one end. Spits frequently form where the coast abruptly changes direction and often occur across the mouths of estuaries; they may develop from each headland at harbour mouths.

What sediment cell is Holderness coast?

The Holderness Coastline is made up of soft boulder clays (tills) left after the retreat of the Devensian ice sheets about 12 000 years ago. They can be seen on the coast, being rapidly eroded by the sea.

What are the 3 main components of a sediment cell?

Sediment cells, also known as littoral cells, are reaches of shoreline that encompass the intertidal and nearshore movement of sediment. A sediment cell basically consists of zones of erosion (e.g. shoreline bluffs), transport (e.g. beaches), and deposition (e.g. spit).

What is the sand budget?

Usually a sand budget analysis is made to calculate an unknown erosion or deposition rate by estimating the different elements of the budget like for instance longshore transport, on- and offshore sand movement and the building or erosion of dunes.

What is called morphology?

morphology, in biology, the study of the size, shape, and structure of animals, plants, and microorganisms and of the relationships of their constituent parts. The term refers to the general aspects of biological form and arrangement of the parts of a plant or an animal.

What are the 3 types of morphology?

Kinds of morphology:
  • Inflectional: regular, applies to every noun, verb, whatever or at least the majority of them. …
  • derivational: morphemes usually change “form class” (“part of speech”), e.g. makes a verb out of a noun, or an adjective out of a verb, etc.

How can we prevent submersion?

Key Points. Coastal protection involves methods and structures that prevent coastal erosion and submersion. Examples of these structures are seawalls, gyrones, and breakwaters. Beach nourishment and installation of small walls made of sandbags are other methods of coastal protection.

What is submersion in coastal processes?

Submersion is the sustainable cyclic portion of coastal erosion where coastal sediments move from the visible portion of a beach to the submerged nearshore region, and later return to the original visible portion of the beach. The recovery portion of the sustainable cycle of sediment behaviour is (accretion).

How does the sea erode the coast?

Coastal erosion is the breaking down and carrying away of materials by the sea. Deposition is when material carried by the sea is deposited or left behind on the coast. Coastal erosion takes place with destructive waves. These destructive waves are very high in energy and are most powerful in stormy conditions.

What is the difference between a groin and a jetty?

Jetties. Jetties are large, man-made piles of boulders or concrete that are built on either side of a coastal inlet. Whereas groins are built to change the effects of beach erosion, jetties are built so that a channel to the ocean will stay open for navigation purposes.

What is the purpose of a groin?

groin, also spelled groyne, in coastal engineering, a long, narrow structure built out into the water from a beach in order to prevent beach erosion or to trap and accumulate sand that would otherwise drift along the beach face and nearshore zone under the influence of waves approaching the beach at an angle.

What is a jetty do?

Jetties protect the shoreline of a body of water by acting as a barrier against erosion from currents, tides, and waves. Jetties can also be used to connect the land with deep water farther away from shore for docking ships and unloading cargo. This type of jetty is called a pier. Jan 21, 2011.

Beach Morphodynamics


Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to …

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